Scientists fear that unrelenting fishing pressure is causing shark populations to decline worldwide. Many warn that the insatiable demand for shark fins are causing chefs to turn their attention to other vulnerable species. An article in the Times of London indicates that slow-maturing manta and devil rays are now being targeted as substitutes for shark fin — a trend that makes them extremely susceptible to overfishing.

Overfishing to support the shark fin trade could very well be one of the most serious environmental issues we face today. Criticism is often directed toward the fishermen and traders involved. But the reality is that the issues are complex, with no single “magic bullet” solution.

By approaching the problem from the top, bottom and middle of the supply chain, scientists, conservationists and policy makers are starting to produce some significant changes. Their approaches include:

• addressing the demand by reaching out to shark fin consumers;
• addressing the supply by protecting marine areas and threatened species, and;
• addressing the trade by implementing restrictions on trade of threatened species and/or shark fins.

In Hawaii, a new bill will take effect in July 2011 making the possession, sale or distribution of shark fin illegal. This move was motivated not only by ecological factors, but also by health concerns. Shark fin is often claimed to have health benefits, such as stimulating appetite, or improving the function of kidneys, lungs and bones. However medical evidence paints a different picture. The United States Environmental Protection Agency advises women and young children to avoid consuming shark due to the extremely high levels of mercury it contains.

In other parts of the world, growing public awareness and concern about the impacts of shark fishing are driving positive changes.

The state of Sabah in Malaysia is considering banning shark finning after scuba divers threatened to boycott the country.

In China the “Say ‘NO’ to Shark Fin Soup” campaign is supported by many of the country’s most popular sporting, movie, business and other public figures, including NBA star Yao Ming, Olympic torch-bearer Li Ning, and Liu Huan, who sang in the Beijing Olympics opening ceremony.

Meanwhile  a campaign in Hong Kong urges locals to reduce their gift money to newlyweds by 30% if shark fin soup is served at wedding banquets.

Responding to the new consciousness, local restaurants are starting to offer shark fin free menus. Local shark fin traders also say they are noticing the shift in attitudes. “Our shark fin business has dropped considerably. Environmental groups are writing such bad stories about shark fin, a lot of people do not want to buy shark fin now,” said Mak Ching-po, chairman of the Hong Kong Dried Seafood and Grocery Merchants Association.

The fishermen and traders involved in this industry are an easy target for criticism. But they are merely fulfilling a demand. And in countries such as Indonesia which do not regulate their shark fisheries, they are not breaking the law.

At the other end of the supply chain, consumers have the power to “vote with their wallets”. They can demand that shark fins are sourced from well-managed sustainable fisheries that prohibit the wasteful and barbaric practice of shark finning. And they can boycott restaurants and suppliers that are unable to demonstrate sustainably caught products. They can tell their friends and colleagues, and persuade them too to make a difference.

Shark fin soup - a popular dish in Jakarta's restaurants

Walking around Jakarta today I noticed numerous restaurants with shark fin soup on the menu. Greater research and regulation of this fishery is needed to support informed consumer choices. Today I found it impossible to say which, if any, of these shark fins were sustainably caught. Or even which were actually manta ray wing tips!

Tell us your opinions in the comments below. Would you eat in a restaurant serving shark fin soup on the menu? Do you think there should be greater efforts to regulate the shark fin industry and secure its sustainable future? Or do you think that environmental concerns should not restrict enjoyment of a traditional culinary dish? Let us know your thoughts below.